Projects - Weaving their own future…the story of Fulia scarves

Amitava Basak, the young entrepreneur of the Fulia scarf unit, one of Sasha’s major producer groups has reasons to be proud of his achievements. At 25, his dyeing & weaving unit has had a turn-over of over Rs. 70,0000/- this year and employs around 55 weavers. But this is today. And the story goes back in the past: Rajen Basak, Amitava’s father had migrated from Tangail, now in Bangladesh to settle in Fulia, West Bengal. He had been engaged in the ancestral occupation of weaving and was an active member of the weaver’s cooperative (Tantubay Samabay Samiti). Shabbi knew him from his Samity days- from the time she along with Swagata visited Fulia. But significant business association with Sasha began in 2002 when the Basaks began to execute export orders of Sasha.

Rajen started his work as an employee at the weaver’s cooperative society of Fulia all the while practicing & learning the art of weaving. In 1978, for the first time he participated in 'The Festival of India' where handloom Sarees from Fulia were showcased. He left his job, and began organizing looms & weavers to produce specific handloom products- mainly scarves. During that period handlooms were facing stiff competition from power looms. But Rajen Basak managed to successfully organize them.

In 1983 as part of the Festival of India, prominent Japanese designers visited West Bengal & specifically Fulia. They were impressed by Basak’s work and placed orders. By this time Rajen Basak had already established his own business and single handedly managed to revive the traditional looms in his area & had been able to employ 150 weavers. Along with his son Amitava, he introduced significant changes in the mode of production and made the handlooms export oriented that resulted in better margins & profitability.

In the initial days, the living conditions as well as the social status of these weavers were poor. A situation had arrived wherein all the looms were on the verge of shutting down owing to lack of demand in the domestic market. Migration further aggravated the situation with widespread unemployment in the Fulia region. With Sasha’s intervention- namely export orders for scarves & stoles for fair trade buyers, the things started looking up. Sasha - EDF is encouraging the use of azo-free dyes & colorants and facilitating improved processes to meet international standards and prevent environmental & health hazards.

With the export-led growth of Fulia scarves propagated by Sasha, the socio economic condition of both men and women within the weaving community has improved. Currently with Sasha’s intervention, technical experts from a renowned Swiss dye manufacturer team are examining their situation and trying to work out remedial measures for AZO, formaldehyde and other recent EU specified hazardous substances so as to manage the polluting residues and its discharges.

Today, Fulia scarves and stoles by Amitava Basak have gained almost an iconic status, owing to their exquisite designs and excellent quality & are being featured in catalogues of renowned Fair Trade Marketers in Europe. Rajen & Amitava Basak in partnership with Sasha have brought this weavers group of Fulia into international limelight, showcasing their immense talent and skill.