Aari or Zardosi embroidery thread has existed in India since the XVth century at the Moghul courts (14 - 17th century) where it was patronized and highly appreciated. After the Moghul Empire fell the master craftsmen scattered to other royal courts in India. Today this craft survives amongst small Muslim communities.

The word aari derives from the word 'aar' or the needle used for this work.

The first step is to stretch the fabric taut over a frame called the 'adda'. This concept has evolved from a knockdown camp bed called the "khatia" used in rural areas. It follows the same tightening and assembly principles of the 'khatia' which gives the cloth a uniform tension. Also the frame can be made to fit any size of fabric. It consists of four wooden spars (sometimes, bamboo is used for the end members) resting on wooden posts. The fabric is stitched on to the wooden frame using thick cotton thread.

Now the actual embroidery starts. A needle with a hooked end and Zari (gold or silver) or cotton or silk thread are used. Aari looks like a fine chain stitch. The needle is pushed through the fabric. From behind, thread is pushed into the hook. When the needle is pulled up again, it comes up with a loop. The next time, the needle goes through the loop and comes up with another loop through the previous loop. The same process is repeated. The stitches are very fine and small.

The main advantage of Aari is that very small and intricate embroidery is possible. Beads, sequins or small spirals of gold or silver wire may be also used in between to add sparkle to the work.

The whole process is done very fast, while maintaining perfect tension of the thread.

After the embroidery, the thread is beaten (flattened) down using a wooden mallet from the top on a handheld wooden anvil placed under the fabric. This settles the thread and gives the work a fuller and finished look.

This process is only for zari work.

Several men may work on a single piece together. This relieves the tedium of a big piece of work which may take a month to finish, while also allowing slightly less experienced craftsmen to learn by working the borders and less intricate motifs. After the embroidery, the piece is ironed and delivered.

The work of the aari craftsman ends here. The process of converting this piece of work into a finished product is done by other units e.g.. For making a piece of garment it is sent to a tailoring unit or in the case of a sari or scarf it may need edging or surface finishing.

Click here to read about Aari craftsmen from Howrah district.